Summer in Sichuan is humid and long. In the afternoon the cicadas rise in waves; by evening people carry small tables out under bamboo blinds or into the shade of a tree, set out a few cold dishes, and pour either a pot of tea or a small cup of baijiu. Many people associate baijiu with winter nights by the stove, but with a little care it can be enjoyed just as well in the heat.
Temperature and cups: cool and small
Much of the charm of a strong-aroma baijiu lies in its fragrance. On a hot day the spirit warms up, alcohol evaporates faster, and the first sip can feel sharp while the aroma gets lost. So the first step in summer is to bring the spirit down a little: keep the bottle somewhere cool and shaded, or rest it briefly in the fridge so it is just below room temperature.
There is no need to chill it hard, though. Too cold and the aroma closes up; the pit character and grain fragrance can't open. Some people like to add ice, and that is a matter of taste, but melting ice dilutes the spirit and changes its flavour. If you want to experience its layers as intended, drink it neat.
Summer is a season for small cups. A small pour is naturally sipped slowly, and a cup that narrows at the rim gathers the aroma so you can smell before you taste. A traditional porcelain cup or a small glass works; a tulip-shaped tasting glass concentrates the fragrance even more. There is no need to fill it to the brim; leave a little room for the aroma.
Food: Sichuan cold dishes
A Sichuan summer table is full of cold dishes: smashed cucumber, wood-ear mushrooms in vinegar, "mouth-watering" chicken in chilli oil, fuqi feipian sliced beef, Northern Sichuan cold jelly noodles and a plate of salted edamame. The fragrance of chilli oil, the tingle of Sichuan pepper and the bite of garlic answer the rich pit aroma of strong-aroma baijiu, one mouthful of food, one sip of spirit.
Drinking alongside food is far more relaxed than drinking on its own. Keep a pot of light tea or a jug of water on the table, sip slowly and know when to stop. A summer evening cup is meant for ease, not excess.
A summer further north: Shun Tun
Qifu's export bottling, Shun Tun, is a strong-aroma baijiu at 52% vol in a 500 ml bottle, listed at Systembolaget, Sweden's state-owned alcohol retailer. Nordic summers have long evenings that refuse to get dark, and the same approach works at an outdoor table there: chill the bottle slightly, pour into small glasses, serve with grilled food or crisp pickles, and smell before you sip.
Whether under bamboo blinds in Mianzhu or in the long light of a Stockholm evening, the rules for summer baijiu are much the same: slightly cool, small cups, good food, and moderation.
